Velvet with standing woman
First half 17th century, India or Iran
silk and metal lamella spun around silk
The weaving in this wall hanging is similar to Iranian velvets of the Safavid period (1502–1736), while the design is distinctly Indian. The framing arch and naturalism of the soil-bound plant are typical of architectural and decorative styles found under the Mughal emperor Shahjahan (who ruled from 1628 to 1658), as are the woman’s transparent blouse, jewels, and hairstyle. Unlike Safavid velvets, which repeat small single or paired figures, this composition presents only one large figure. Regardless of its origins, both the scale and quality of this piece make it a masterpiece of textile art.